A chromatic degradé of fancy-coloured tourmalines of green and pink set off against the maison’s Flora motif convey the subtle joy of spring; saturated emeralds, spinels and paraiba tourmalines mirror the intensity of summer; yellow sapphires and mandarin garnets, complemented by yellow gold, bring out the fiery hues of autumn; and opal and diamonds recall the icy landscape in winter.

A particular feature of the collection is the uncommon or antique gemstone cuts, from old European-cut diamonds to briolettes, from kite- to fan-shaped gems, as well as the ornate Baroque, Rococo and Victorian jewellery style seen in previous high jewellery collections from Gucci.

2. Chanel Tweed de Chanel

A new instalment to the 45-piece high jewellery collection unveiled in 2020, this range continues its interpretation of the fabric made in Scotland that Coco Chanel came into contact with in the 1920s. From a rugged cloth for outdoor life, she turned it into a signature of her brand’s elegant womenswear, and its woven texture became the basis of the new 63-piece series of what Patrice Leguéreau, Director of the Chanel Fine Jewellery Creation Studio, describes as “tweed set with precious stones.”

Divided into five chapters, each underpinned by a new tweed jewellery weave, the jewellery feature motifs of the maison—the white ribbon, pink camellia, comet, yellow sun, and lion—interpreted through gold and platinum threads, gemstones, pearls, and extraordinary openwork.

3. Dior Les Jardins de la Couture